There’s no bib-wearing dress code necessary for the Smoked Maple Black Pepper Pork Belly ($29), which Dan and Will cleanly and happily consumed. Try these mess-fests and you’ll actually be handed a “Tall Papi syndrome” bib to cope with what you’re attempting.
#PAPI CHULO TWITTER FULL#
The restaurant’s got the serious hardware to make it happen – fortified by a Brazilian rotisserie and parilla, and two smokers made in Sydney – and diners are appropriately equipped if they dare to take on the Smoked Pork Ribs with Papi’s BBQ Sauce ($34 for half rack, $49 for full slab) or the Papi Chulo BBQ Platter ($86), which is so overloaded with wagyu brisket, pickles, soft bread and triple-barrel variations on Homer Simpson’s favourite “magical animal” (ribs, chopped pork and pork belly) that it can feed four people. The central nerve of Papi Chulo is dedicated to the American style of barbecue – where flavours are built from many hours and smoke, and is a universe away from the quick time signature of meat sizzling in Australian backyards over summer. Case in point: the last time I boarded a ferry to Manly was 14 years ago then I found myself hitting the wharf twice in two days, solely to dine at Papi Chulo just after it opened. It’s original, fun, a little audacious and full of bullseye-hitting thrills. Together, they’ve created an excellent menu that takes on the slow and smoky tempo of American barbecue, while weaponising the power of Asian ingredients to add fire and contrast to cuisines from different borders. The new Papi Chulo restaurant in Manly continues Dan Hong’s hitmaking record with Merivale ( Ms G’s, El Loco, Mr Wong) and the executive chef is joined here by two brilliant co-conspirators and head chefs, Patrick Friesen (who has been running Ms.G’s for the last two years) and Christopher Hogarth (who launched both outposts of El Loco).
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